The groundbreaking July 2008 issue of Vogue Italia, featuring Steven Meisel’s photographs of black models will be released next Thursday, June 26.

Posing the question of what can change the persistent stereotyping and marginalization of black models in the fashion industry, Cathy Horyn, in the New York Times, finds that in this case, it an influential photographer, Steven Meisel (who rose to prominence after he collaborated with Madonna for the landmark 1992 book, “Sex”) and an editor, Franca Sozzani, of Vogue Italia, who  is not afraid to take chances.

Top cover photos, left to right: Liya Kebede, Sessilee Lopez, Jourdan Dunn and Naomi Campbell.  Above photo: Naomi Campbell

Photo Credit: Steven Meisel/Italian Vogue 

Liya Kebede

For the July issue of Italian Vogue, Mr. Meisel has photographed only black models. In a reverse of the general pattern of fashion magazines, all the faces are black, and all the feature topics are related to black women in the arts and entertainment. Mr. Meisel was given roughly 100 pages for his pictures. The issue will be on European newsstands next Thursday and in the United States soon after.

Under its editor, Franca Sozzani, Italian Vogue has gained a reputation for being more about art and ideas than commerce. Ms. Sozzani also doesn’t mind controversy.

She said that, as an Italian, she has been intrigued by the American presidential race and Mr. Obama, which was one source of inspiration when she and Mr. Meisel began discussing, in February, the idea of an all-black issue. Also, she was aware of the lack of diversity on the runways in recent years and the debate it fueled last fall in New York, where Bethann Hardison, a former model who ran a successful agency, held two panel discussions on the topic.

Sessilee Lopez

Ms. Sozzani said the issue was not a response to criticism that she, too, has under-represented blacks or portrayed them as stereotypes.

“Mine is not a magazine that can be accused of not using black girls,” said Ms. Sozzani, noting that Naomi Campbell has had several covers, and that Liya Kebede and Alek Wek have also had covers.

Sessilee Lopez

Having worked at one time with nearly all the models he chose for the black issue — Iman, Ms. Campbell, Tyra Banks, Jourdan Dunn, Ms. Kebede, Ms. Wek, Pat Cleveland, Karen Alexander — Mr. Meisel had his own feelings. “I thought, it’s ridiculous, this discrimination,” said Mr. Meisel, speaking by phone from his home in Los Angeles. “It’s so crazy to live in such a narrow, narrow place. Age, weight, sexuality, race — every kind of prejudice.”

Tyra Banks

He began casting in March. “I love the history of fashion, obviously, and I love old, and I tried to get as many of the older girls as I could,” he said. Over Ms. Sozzani’s initial objections, he also hired Toccara Jones, a full-figure model, who became known from “America’s Next Top Model.” “I wanted to say something about weight, and I’m never allowed to do that,” he said. “I met Toccara and thought, she’s beautiful. What’s the deal with her? She’s great and she’s sexy.”

Source: Conspicuous by Their Presence

The accompanying slide show - Beautiful is Beautiful - has additional photographs of some of the models who will appear in the upcoming July Vogue Italia.

See also Cathy Horyn’s blog post about the upcoming Vogue Italy.

• Beauty and Soul

See also related post:

• Vogue Italia’s History-Making July Issue Will Feature All Black Models

Jourdan Dunn

Photos: Preview of “Vogue” Italia July 2008 All Black Models Issue